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Puebla’s Mesones Sacristia Cooking School & Mole Recipe
Puebla is often referred to as the gastronomic capital of Mexico by many Mexicans. As a result, it was a priority for me to test it. Its food is the result of a strong culinary heritage, a wide variety of spices, and delicious dishes and sweets.
Mole is one of the most important dishes of the state and has become famous all over the world. My favorite is the chiles en nogada (peppers stuffed in walnut sauce), which is usually prepared between June and September. The legend that accompanies this dish is that the nuns created it to honor General Agustin de lturbide by mixing native and mestizo ingredients, such as chili pepper, Castilla walnuts and pomegranate seeds. Experiencing this dish is worth the trip to Puebla.
Other Puebla foods you might want to try are the worms gorditas, chalupas, el pipian and maguey. They also have a colorful selection of pastries, sweets and bakeries and a street dedicated to them including the candy shops. Some of the more popular sweets include tortitas de Santa Clara; jamocillos de mazapan and goat’s milk; and the vanilla, pineapple and coconut yams.
My understanding was that Oaxaca was “home” to the original Mole. And although Oaxaca has seven different types including “mole negro,” Puebla’s is different and claims to have the first mole kitchen in one of its museums and is famous for its varieties of mole.
The history of mole and ingredients is interesting to me. I had seen some women doing it in Oaxaca a few years ago and wanted to attend the cooking school offered by Mesones Sacristia in Puebla and learn how to make mole.
I have attended many cooking schools, classes, demonstrations, etc. and Executive Chef Alonso Hernández leads the small practical classes with comfort and ease. His English is very good, a wonderful sense of humour, and he is an excellent teacher. He is very proud that you understand and learn Mexican cooking. There is also a translator to explain nuances as you learn the most traditional Pueblan and Mexican dishes. You will also learn about most types of chiles, using pre-Hispanic and home cooking techniques in Mexico. The aim of the school is to share cooking secrets and have attendees have a memorable and wonderful time.
Our class started by walking from the hotel to the market to shop for the ingredients for our mole. As we selected Mulato chilies, Ancho chilies, and Pasilla chilies, Chef Alonso explained the different chilies and the level of capsaicin that makes them hot.
The market was overwhelmed with all the fresh produce. I couldn’t help myself, I bought a stick of cinnamon which was 1½ inches in diameter and about 14 inches long. I had never seen such large and aromatic cinnamon sticks. It did wonders for my suitcase.
A chef wanted us to try a fresh sandwich from the market. I shared one and my half was huge. The number of sandwiches this fresh counter turns out is incredible.
After we fished our market, we went back to the hotel kitchen for our class.
If I had more time in Puebla, I would have gone back to the market and spent several hours. It was fascinating.
The ingredients for the Mole:
of 3 pieces Mulato Chile
of 3 pieces Ancho Chile
of 3 pieces Pasilla Chile
of 500 g tomatoes
of 200 g onions
of 2 garlic cloves
of 2 pieces Ibarra Chocolate (dark)
of 1 tortilla
of 100 g sugar
of 100 g salt
of 100 g powdered chicken stock
of 5 cups of water
of 1 plantain
Serve with chicken or turkey
In the kitchen we broke out latex gloves, removed the stem and seeds from the mulato, ancho and pasilla chilies. Then we fry them until we get a crunchy texture.
Next we roasted tomatoes, onions and garlic on a comal (grill).
We boiled the chilies and vegetables in water until the chilies became soft which took about 10 minutes.
We grind all the boiled ingredients together with its own broth and strain it to make a sauce.
The next step was to peel the plantain and cut it lengthwise into four pieces. Then we fried it until it was golden brown.
We roasted the tortilla directly over the flame until it was black and crispy on both sides.
To my surprise, we put the burnt tortilla, plantain and 1 cup of water in a blender to blend and strain.
Then we mixed the peppers and vegetables (2 batches) and covered them with a towel to release steam.
Fry the vegetable sauce in lard and let it boil.
Add the plantain/tortilla sauce and let it boil for a few minutes.
Season to taste with (about 1 teaspoon) salt, sugar, and powdered chicken stock. Simmer for 45 minutes.
The sauce will keep in the fridge for 3 or 4 days.
I was shocked to find the prices under $100 for a three day course with three cooking classes of three hours each and three delicious recipes. The instruction includes participation and natural tasting.
They also offer a seven day, six night class with six nights of accommodation at one of the lovely Mesones Sacristia properties and a fifteen hour Basic Mexican Cooking Course in English or Spanish. Your breakfasts are included as well as lunch at various restaurants in Puebla. You will also get a guided tour and other treats.
The Meson Sacristia de la Compania and Meson Sacristia de Capuchinas are small, traditional hotels that are part of Hotels con Angel, and belong to the Mexico Boutique Hotels Group. They all offer a small number of rooms in historic buildings with unique architecture. These are in residences over three centuries old that have been remodeled and renovated for the comfort and convenience of the guests in the historic and fascinating state of Puebla, Mexico.
Experiencing this school as well as Puebla itself will be an unforgettable experience. I hope to return one day and take Norm or Brenda with them to see all the city has to offer. The good food is only a small part of this culturally rich area. Like all other areas I have had the opportunity to visit, it is the warmth of the people that draws one back to Puebla.
It is also known as the City of Angels and a World Heritage Site with over 5,000 colonial buildings mostly built during the 16th century. Puebla is known for its crafts including Talavera pottery, figurines, bark paper paint and onyx and marble sculptures. Along with many other fine crafts, the traditional markets and beautiful plazas are where you will find the artisans selling their products.
Puebla, Mexico’s 5th largest city, is accessible. I flew to Mexico City and took a bus (modern Mercedes) from the airport for 90 minutes and arrived easily.
For more information about the cookery school email: email@example.com.
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